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The New Dynamics of Fine Jewellery

Jewellery houses are placing more focus on hospitality, increasing the range of their product and embracing all things digital, in a bid to speak to the new generation of luxury consumers and tap into the sector’s rapid growth trajectory.

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During Paris Couture Week earlier this month, Net-a-Porter – whose fine jewellery views have gone up 200 percent in the last year – introduced an invitation-only digital destination where top clients can view high-ticket items by traditionally offline labels like Boghossian, Giampiero Bodino and Boehmer and Bassenge.

“Building on the success of our fine jewellery and watch suite, we wanted to offer clients a truly unique opportunity to discover the world’s most exclusive high jewellery maisons through a highly personalised, invitation-only service,” said Alison Loehnis, president at Net-a-Porter and Mr. Porter, in a statement.

Another way the fine jewellery world has opened up is by becoming more willing to rub shoulders with the fashion sector, whether by engaging with fashion influencers or giving a bigger push to fashion accessories of their own.

Cartier launched a new “Guirlande” bag with a tongue-in-cheek video campaign on Instagram that saw every major influencer from Aimee Song to Bryan Boy, take the bag on a stroll through Paris; Chopard debuted a bag of its own with fashion icon Chloe Sevigny that came in a trendy box style and featured a large heart appliqué; while Bulgari has transformed its Serpenti bags into Instagram must-haves through clever influencer placement.

As a result, fashion brands are taking the opportunity to explore the segment, with Gucci being the latest entrant.

The Kering-owned label has just opened the doors to its first dedicated jewellery space on Paris’ Place Vendome that will offer a more elevated take on the house’s signature magpie costume jewellery.

It’s a smart move, as branded product becoming as important in the high jewellery world as it is in fashion. According to McKinsey, branded jewellery will account for up to 40 percent of the jewellery market  by 2020, fuelled by the demands of younger or emerging market consumers – and fashion labels or fashion-driven products will be most suited to cater to their needs.

“Future growth in branded jewellery is likely to come from non-jewellery players in adjacent categories such as high-end apparel or leather goods—companies like Dior, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton—introducing jewellery collections or expanding their assortment,” said a McKinsey spokesperson. “[That’s why] every jewellery company should seek to strengthen and differentiate its brands through unique, distinctive designs.”

Natalie Yiasoumi

Natalie is a journalist and editor specialising in luxury fashion, fine jewellery, business strategy and online retail. She has written for a wide range of b2b platforms and consumer publications in the London and Middle Eastern markets. Her biggest areas of interest include the intersection between fashion and technology and new media frontiers.

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